Ultra Tour Trail Du Mont Blanc 2009


It’s been almost 4 weeks since the race and about time I put some thoughts down on paper before the detail is forgotten.
This race was the focus of my year when I was accepted in January. I, along with three other Australians would contest in what in 7 years has become the biggest trail ultra in the world. With 2300 competitors, 166kms of Alpine trails, 9,400 metres ascent and 3 countries to pass through it’s not difficult to understand why.
My journey to the UTMB began in mid July with a holiday to Ireland, catching up with family and attending both my brother's and sister’s weddings. It was a family holiday with my wife and three daughters coming along for the ride.
My training tailed off considerably after leaving Australia and my booze intake increased substantially. This was a holiday however and I was in Guinness land. :)
After a week in Bangkok and 3 weeks in Ireland prior to the run we flew into Frankfurt, Germany where we picked up our motorhome (campervan) rental. We travelled south along the ‘romantic road’ from Wurzburg to Fussen visiting the most beautiful towns Germany has to offer before finally reaching the Swiss Alps, travelled through Switzerland and then scooting across to race headquarters in Chamonix France. I felt very anxious about my recent preparation with very few runs over 20kms (one in fact in the Dublin Mtns only) and was worried about my overly tight hamstrings. But I figured I was here to run as best I could on the day and accept my pre race conditioning.
Note click on images for full resolution.
We arrived in Chamonix on the Wednesday of race week. Chamonix is a rather large ski resort town nestled in a beautiful Alpine valley with the Mont Blanc massif overshadowing it. What a wonderful part of the world with absolutely stunning picture postcard views in all directions. We found a suitable campground on the outskirts of town near the Les Bossons glacier and set up camp. The following morning (day before the race) we lined up all day to go up the Agui du Midi cable car which takes you up to 3842mtrs looking straight across at the Mont Blanc peak. This is the biggest tourist attraction in the town and although we lined up for hours and spent most of the day up there on our feet, it was well worth the views, simply stunning. I was starting to feel like racing and getting out onto the climbs of the UTMB.
The entire event is extremely well organised, which it has to be with the number of entrants 2300. Three events happen simultaneously, The Petit Trot Leon (PTL), The CCC and the UTMB. The PTL is the toughest, a multi day (100hr cut-off) 220km and 17,000 m ascent. It’s claimed to be more of an event than a race with teams of 3 competing and overnighting in huts along the way. I guess it’s similar to fast packing.
Of course the most popular event is the UTMB with a complete circumnavigation of the Mont Blanc Massif. It covers most of the well-trodden TMB hikers trail with some diversions along the way. The CCC is the little brother event, a 98km run around the back half of the UTMB starting at the approximate halfway point of the UTMB in Courmayeur Italy through to Champex and then on to the finish in Chamonix
Race day dawned and after a nice lie-in (race starts at 6.30pm) we made our way into town to register. By this stage the town centre is rocking with excitement as runners descend on the town in the thousands. Rego is quick and efficient with a quick check of compulsory gear. This year there would be a minimum weight requirement of 2kgs per pack after a few complaints last year about certain runners not carrying all the required gear. There would be spot checks throughout the race too (my pack was actually checked just as I approached the start line).
I was keen to meet up with Kevin Cassidy who I had been in touch prior to the race. After a few texts we finally met near the pasta dinner venue. It was great to meet both Kev and Sandra and then to finally catch up with Jan too.
I was pumped when we finally arrived at the start line. It’s hard not to be with 2,300 runners from all over the world, (some would say the cream of ultra runners) crammed into the small cobblestone streets of Chamonix. An archway marks the start/finish line with a booming loudspeaker belting out Vangelis to stir up the emotions. I stood there with my wife Sue and the girls closing my eyes, soaking it up, getting a charge off the atmosphere. The announcers were mostly speaking in French with the occasional English translation. After a 10 second countdown we were off bang on 6.30pm.
It took quite some time to get going with a slow shuffle around the streets until we spread out. The French really embrace this event and from the off there were hundreds lined along the streets cheering and singing, fantastic.
I desperately looked for Sue and the girls at the first turn where she said she would be, but alas no chance, it was chockers. I did spot Kev Cassidy busily snapping away as we left the town centre. This was without doubt unlike any ultra I’d run before.
It was interesting watching the majority of runners around me carrying their trekking poles. Some left them in their packs for later, others ran with them swaying side by side and others attempted using them from the off. To be honest it was frustrating having to avoid getting stabbed at times, as we were herded out of town.
After a few kms of easy flat running we hit our first climb (800m) to the La Charme. The views back along this climb were simply wonderful as the light of the sun begins to fade. How unusual to be running into the darkness this early in a 100 miler. My phone rings as I climb, my brother asking about flower girl dresses for his wedding (my daughters were flower girls), hmm bad timing mate. I power hiked this climb feeling good and strong, looking at runner’s race bibs with their flags of nationality printed on them. The majority of runners were from France, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Despite the huge numbers there was an intense air about the place with very little chatting. One guy, an Italian was great value, he would woo the crowds as we approached the towns, revving them up and it was hard not to get pumped by his energy.
I enjoyed the descent into Saint Gervais but wow, some of the runners around me took off. I held back preserving my knees and hammies for later using my experience and not getting drawn into silly games this early.
Saint Gervais was incredible. The town was alive with UTMB fever. People lined the streets, cowbells rang, and wine was drunk, along with flying high fives from the kids. This was a taste of what was to be a regular occurrence at each of the tiny village towns lining the course, reminding me of scenes from the Tour de France.
I filled my pack, grabbed some fruit and cake and left. No need to linger here.
The next 10kms were undulating tending upwards to the town of Les Contamines 31km in and then the LONG…BIG climb to the top of the Croix du Bonhomme 2479m(1270m/9.4km ascent). Still early days, I was happy to just put the head down and plug away at it. I looked nervously at those around me efficiently leaning on their poles hauling themselves upwards effortlessly thinking, oh God I hope my decision to leave mine at home doesn’t come back to haunt me. The thing about this race is if you use poles for any part of it you have to carry them the entire way, they are not allowed in drops etc. Oh well suck it up and see.
As I looked back along the trail the line of headlamps twinkling, snaking their way up the mountainside was awesome. I recall it being very cold as we approached the summit. The weather changes quickly here so I pulled over to the side and put my rain jacket on. The temp dropped to 2C apparently near the top and it started raining, it was 1.38am. At the crest there stood a small inviting hut (refuge) set up where you could get out of the wind and into warmer gear, a glowing orange ball from the heaters and lights inside that could be seen for miles.
The descent into Les Chapieux was steep with some sections along grass. This brought relief to the feet, which were sore and hot. My headlamp flashed and not long after the beam began to fade. Trouble was I was on a downhill and didn’t want to stop to change batteries. I hung on to a guy running a similar pace and used his light to guide me down and onto the streets of Les Chapieux, 50kms down. Unbelievably, as I sat down to change my headlamp batteries, the guy sitting next to me was from Petzl. He recycled my used batteries and gave me 4 freshly charged AAs. What were the chances of that! I nibbled on some cheese and bread (as if I hadn’t already eaten enough cheese and baguette whilst travelling) and grabbed a couple of sportsbars. The aid stations were more than adequately stocked, some even serving wine from small casques! My Inov-8 pack was performing well with water refills not a bother despite the horizontal bladder set up, erasing my earlier concerns.
The next 10kms to the Col de la Seigne (2516m) a climb of just shy on 1000m took me a good 2 hours. Some trails were nicely groomed and others were rocky and quite technical. I switched to that 2-4am autopilot mode, waiting for dawns first rays to re-energise me. I had now crossed into Italy. Yet another descent to Lac Canbal and subsequent climb to Arête du Mont-Favre. It’s handy having the map now as I recall these climbs, because at the time they all melded into one. It was 12 hrs in exactly when I topped out. I was ahead of my initial projections and I figured on a 14hr arrival in Courmayeur(a vague calculation), the approximate half waypoint and major drop bag aid station. I had no idea what position I was in at this stage but was continually impressed with the calibre of runners around me. Some made climbing look so effortless. One guy chatted to me for a while as we power walked. He was a 3-time finisher and filled me in on what to expect over the next few hours. Climb…descend…climb…descend was pretty much the gist of it.
The long descent into Courmayeur was lovely with the rays of the new day lighting up the southern side of the Mont Blanc massif. I trundled my way down several endless switchbacks feeling reasonably good and re-energised from the dawning of the new day, apart from some hot spots on my feet. I was wearing my Cascadias but found my feet moving around far too much in them. This descent was incredible, at times I could see where some runners had taken the shortcuts through the switchbacks. Not that much gain I figured and they would likely burn up their quads heaps quicker too. I was chasing a bloke in front and slowly gaining on him catching him just before the bottom. Out onto the streets of this pretty Italian town where once again despite the time of the day I was welcomed with applause and cheers. It really did help lift the spirits.
The aid station is set up in the Sports Complex, a gymnasium which was huge. Inside tables were set up with runners eating pasta and drinking soup. I retrieved my drop bag (the only drop bag allowed in the entire race) and changed into a new top and ditched the Cascadias for the rock protection and comfort of my old Montrail Continental Divides. A loo stop (where some runners chose to do a full body wash down at the sinks!) and then some hot breakfast pasta (yum…not. it was 8am!). I invested a good 20 minutes there but it was time well spent. Leaving the aid station I took the opportunity to snap some photos as I walked the climb up the road out of town, again simply stunning views.
On the climb to the Refuge Bertone I started feeling ill all of a sudden. Where the hell was my energy boost from the hot food back at Courmayeur? I fell into a bad slump and struggled with my appetite. Continuing to the next Refuge Bonatti at 90km I was walking lots. I had quite a few runners pass me on the way up to the highest point of the course at the Grand Col Ferret 2537m. This is one mother of a climb, open trail with no tree cover. However the distraction of the sheer beauty around me helped somewhat and I knew at some stage I would find my way out of this trough.
I bumped into a few hikers as we approached the top that noticed the Australian flag on my bib. I stopped and chatted to them, one of whom once climbed Kosciusko. They wished me well and said I was the only Australian they had seen on the course thus far. After cresting we crossed into Switzerland and into a strong cold wind, how different from the opposite side of the pass. I quickly threw my jacket back on for the flying descent.
My climbing legs were hurting and although I was slowing with each ascent I was still catching up on most of those who passed me on the descents. My downhill running was keeping my average speed quite healthy and I was holding my position but I was concerned. I was 100kms into the run and had a long way to go.
The long descent to La Fouly was better and I made good time and started to feel better. I was not eating much however and vowed to slam back another broth once at the aid station. Familiar faces as I re-passed quite a few runners. I marvelled at how well some runners used their poles even on the descents. I spent 20 minutes at La Fouly recovering, eating and drinking. It was hot and I was slightly dehydrated. The staff at the aid stations were very helpful, despite the language barrier.
It was 3.15pm when I left. I had several hours of daylight left and wanted to cover as much ground as possible. The next big aid station was 15kms away at Champex-Lac with yet another climb into it. The rolling countryside of the Swiss mountains was one of my favourite sections of the entire course. At one stage I was by myself, for the first time, no one is sight ahead and no one behind. Lush rolling countryside, beautiful quaint houses dotted on the hillside amongst the pine trees. I was in a very happy space.
At the aid station I had a cup of tea and a biscuit, which seemed to help my appetite. Back out and onto the climb to Bovine where once again I slowed to a crawl. How the hell was I going to complete this thing with 2 more major climbs left? For the first time I started to seriously doubt whether I was going to be able to get up those climbs.
The second night of running was upon me now and I needed something to get me through it. I rummaged around in the bush and found the perfect walking stick. This “trekking pole” would become my best mate for the next 30kms. I was close to packing in and lying down at the top of the climb into Bovine but this stick helped me haul myself up the steep rocky trail taking the weight off my aching hammies and quads.
Out on the trail to Trient I caught a French guy who spoke some English. We chatted for a while; it was good to have some company. He too was a 3-time finisher and informed me that the worst was still ahead. Great! Apparently only 2 more climbs but the last was a late addition last year and a real evil climb that drains you.
I tucked in behind my new friend and made good progress to Trient, after another endless switchbacky freefall to the checkpoint. It was a fun trail, technical single track, roots and rock hopping. It was just on 10PM when I finally arrived at Trient. The checkpoint was buzzing, doubling up as a bar and an aid station. I grabbed a bowl of soup and wanted pasta, but there were only meat sauces available. A computer was linked up to an overhead projector displaying runners split times as they came in crossing the timing mats. The DJ was blasting music and randomly calling out runners’ names. All of a sudden I hear “do we have a Philip Murphy from Australia, is he here?” I put my hand up and smiled, and the locals at the bar cheered. How cool was this. Next I hear Men at Work’s “Land Down Under” blaring out from the speakers. “This is for the Australie” the DJ proclaims. Very cool albeit slightly embarrassing. :) It did lift the spirits though and I left there feeling good. 2 climbs left, how hard can it be? I had given up looking at my maps and elevation profiles after feeling sick glancing at it in La Fouly. This race just kept on getting tougher and tougher. Head down and get on with it, a real test of character.
The climb up to Catogne (700m/5km) began pretty much as soon as I left the CP. Long switchbacks that went on forever. I stopped to go the toilet and after getting going again realised I had forgotten my trusty stick. I backtracked and retrieved it; no way I was leaving it behind. A couple of runners passed me on this climb looking strong. I would re-catch them later on the other side of the pass. The stick was definitely helping me on this climb. Next stop was Vallorcine back into France. The distance is supposedly only 5km but I would contest this, surely it was way further. Looking at my splits it would seem so. The descent into Vallorcine was murder on my now exhausted quads. I could see the town lights from the top of the pass but it seemed to take an eternity to reach it. At one stage I heard cowbells thinking this was the town with cheering crowds as was the norm, only to realise there were in fact 5 black bulls ahead blocking the trail! I stopped and moved to the side. A runner in front was startled and slightly freaked out. He turned around and started walking towards me. I had my stick and so felt slightly less vulnerable. Turned out the bulls were more freaked out by our headlamps as they scurried on by. I met another French guy who had been leap frogging with me for quite a while. He was struggling on the downhills with smashed quads but still strong on the climbs. We complemented each other quite well, so we ended up helping each other for the next few hours.
At Vallorcine I didn’t eat, no appetite again, so I just filled the pack and left with Christophe, my new trail buddy. Upon leaving the CP Christophe offered me a Mars Bar. I managed to get it down and was thankful for the extra energy given what lay ahead. After a few kms of gradual incline the trail quickly became very steep and rocky. I leant on my trusty stick for support as I hauled myself up this final climb. (870m/ 7km). Stopping every now and again to catch my breath and prevent my calves from spasming it took a long time to ascend. More runners passed us, but at this stage I didn’t give a rats. After finally summating (several false peaks later) the trail flattens out to a boulder hopping ‘watch your ankles’ traverse of top of the mountain. Pretty much a diagonal crossing from one side to the other until finally the lights of Chamonix deep in the valley below appear. Christophe was hurting badly on the way to the final CP at La Flegere and so we slowed quite a bit getting there. As we approached the illuminated oasis I could hear Elvis on their loudspeaker system. My mind drifted off to the GNW100 and the now infamous Elvis music at CP1.
I knew I had a bit of time to get down the supposed final 6 kms to Chamonix and make sub 36hr (a vague goal I had from the start) so waited until Christophe ate and recovered. We were a good team and a finish together would be cool. I texted Sue as to when I roughly expected to finish, so she could wake the kids and drive there. After leaving the final CP it quickly became apparent that the terrain (very rocky, rough and slow) was having a huge affect on Christophe. He urged me on knowing he was not going to make 36hrs. Reluctantly I took off and like a man possessed flew down the last 7kms of switchbacks dropping into the Chamonix valley. Still it took quite some time before reaching the outskirts of the town. I passed 3 more runners before popping out onto the streets. It was getting close to 6.20am and I recalled a loop the loop before the finish line. I strode out and was running 4.30/kms probably my fastest pace of the entire run. No way I was missing 36hrs now. I switched off my headlamp and charged through the streets of the awakening town. There were a few people already lining the barricades showing their appreciation. I rounded the final bend and there it was, the finish line I had dreamt about for months. The emotion of it all took over and when I saw Sue and my girls at the finish line (the first time they have been there for the finish of a 100 miler) I welled up. I threw my stick into the air punching it triumphantly. 35hrs 56 mins, job done.
What a run! What a challenge, I was finished, totally spent but extremely satisfied.
289th form 2300 entrants, I’ll take that. The most pleasing statistic was that I steadily improved my position the whole way despite my troubles in the middle-final third of the race.
So would I do it again? Probably if given the opportunity, but it’s the kind of run that ticks the bucket list box and there are just too many other 100 milers on that list. If you don’t mind crowds and enjoy running up and down very steep alpine mountains I can’t recommend it highly enough though. Just make sure you incorporate plenty of long hills in your training and make a holiday of it. There is so much to do and see in the Chamonix valley. If you like, take some poles. Hell if Scott Jurek and Karl Meltzer are using them after years of not, there’s got to be something to it?
It’s now been 4 weeks since I finished with 2 weeks of zero running and very little since. I am still very much unrecovered. This race took more out of me than any other. Maybe I was not “hill ready” enough, but I suspect a less than ideal lead up (lots of German beer and French wine, getting around in a campervan etc) most likely lead to my lethargic recovery. But bugger it. I wouldn’t change a thing. (Well except for maybe using those ‘very European’ sticks J)























