Wilsons Promontory Trail Run 80km

Wilsons Promontory Trail Run 2009

I've been meaning to get down and run this one for a number of years but something always conspired against it. Having read numerous race reports, trawled through Chillimans’s photos from last year and listened to Whippet talk it up; this was the time to finally tick it off the list.

With the Victorian bush fires hitting the Prom pretty badly we were lucky to get a run down there at all. Fortunately the fires stayed north of Tidal river, which meant Parks could open up the entire trail south that is used for the 80km. I flew down on the Friday morning and after a week of showers in Sydney; I was fully expecting it to be wet and wild at the Prom. Whippet picked me up at Avalon on route from Geelong and 4hrs later we arrived at Tidal river campground. We unpacked the mellum mothership and set up tent just before the rain hit.
Met up with Eatem, DuckGirl and Chilliman (who was there from Thursday and graciously had race headquarters set up). As dusk fell more and more runners arrived along with RD Paul Ashton. A great buzz about the place with lots of anticipation amongst the virgins, yours truly included.
After campsite dinner and a couple of beers we were off to bed. Not much sleep was had as the wind and rain kicked up through the night, blowing our tarp over. Poor Andy was up in the middle of the night hammering pegs in the ground and tying the tarp to the trees.

Just before arising at 5am it pissed down and was blowing a gale. Hmm this was going to be interesting. After a short race briefing from Paul we set off bang on 6am.

A total of 40 odd runners in various distances 44km, 60km and the 80km.
There was lots of experience around too with most repeat offenders, Whippet taking the prize for most Prom appearances since its inception in 2001. The first climb up to Oberon carpark quickly split the field. I tried to stay with Bryan (Ackers) but he soon disappeared into the distance, a way better climber than I. Whippet was not that far behind and there were only a handful of runners in front. At the carpark we hit the trail proper to Sealers. I roughly estimated and printed 10hr splits based on Brett’s excellent topo map and carried them with me.

Windy Saddle was a bigger climb than I anticipated but still runable. The fires had crossed the trail here and I was surprised they were re-opened so soon. With headlamps still on we made our way up to the top through an eerily damp and scorched trail. The stench from the charred vegetation was still in the air. As I crested the saddle I looked around briefly, what a cool place, the sky a dark steely grey.
I had flaffed about with my jacket, taking it off on the climb to Oberon carpark, only to put it back on again as the rain came down again.

The next section was mostly downward toward Sealers Cove along beautiful tree covered singletrack and rainforest before finally emerging on a boardwalk across Sealers Swamp. I ran reasonably well along this descent twisting and turning it’s way toward Sealers. I passed Freesoul who was gliding along barefoot. Very impressive stuff, she made barefoot running look simple and painless. I envied her and wished I could do the same. She was really experiencing the trail.
I was in front of Whippet at this stage but knew once we hit the long downhill he would come screaming past and right on cue just before the boardwalk he did, mentioning he would see me at the beach.
I was busting to go though and took advantage of the toilet right at the beach, losing a couple of minutes in the process. When I did hit the sand I could see Whippet, Bryan and Peter Bignell (pbig) off in the distance about to cross the inlet. I was warned that this exit from the campground was a bit tricky to find but I couldn’t catch up to the front guys. As I crossed the creek I looked for their footprints but they disappeared into the grass. I looked for an obvious trailhead but couldn’t see anything. Damn, then I noticed Maggot behind me. He directed me off to the left and said look for a trail and head into the campsite. I did but went too far left and ended up running along a trail to a Rangers Hut, which would then take me back into the campsite. Not much time lost but a reminder to stay focussed. Maggot refilled at the waterpipe, I had enough and so continued on the climb around the headland, destination Refuge Cove. Thanks Maggot.

The trail climbs and drops around the headlands tending east and then south. I was feeling rather crappy at this early stage and wondered whether the Hellgate Fatass run the weekend before may have still been in the legs. However, after a nice downhill I emerged onto Refuge Cove and was stopped in my tracks by its beauty. The turquoise water lapped the shoreline as the sun peeked out from behind the clouds. I could have easily pulled up here for a while and went for swim, perfect.
But this was a race, so I got moving again. Found the exit easily and began the climb up the next headland which skirts Kersop Peak.
The trail petered out onto huge granite boulders at times and this stuffed me up. I looked around and just guessed the way forward, which luckily turned out to be correct. Looking back along the coastline here afforded spectacular vistas of pristine unspoilt beaches, more magic stuff. Eventually another long downhill takes you onto Waterloo Bay. The sun was out now and after catching Pbig at Little Waterloo I stopped to take my jacket off and stuff it back into my pack. Maggot caught up as I took off up the final headland before Waterloo Bay proper.

The Waterloo Walking Track takes heads inland west to Telegraph Junction bisecting the lower peninsula of Wilsons Prom and was one of my favourite parts of the entire run. It starts out along sandy single track that quickly become duckboarding and then back onto sand. The spurs of Mt Boulder off to the left with fantastic rock formations, the sands of Oberon Bay straight ahead in the distance and the mighty Mt Wilson to the right, all surreal surrounds on Australia’s most southerly terrain. I ran most of the uphill here figuring if I could make good time to the Junction I could stop briefly to drop off some food and drink for the return trip and scoff down a tin of spaghetti hoops at the same time. As I approached the lightly forested area of the junction I spotted Whippet who had just arrived. “What took you so long” was his first comment. We stashed our drops in the bush and headed south up the long climb toward Martins Hill. I enjoyed the power walk break but was feeling good and wanted to get running again, maximise your highs and survive your lows right. Pbig appeared just as I was taking off, having made good time from Waterloo Bay it seemed.

I ran past Halfway Hut choosing not to stop, I had plenty of water. Before long I reached the trail junction where the single-track turns off to the right. I took a split, just outside 10hr pace. The trail now descends along some fairly overgrown trail that eventually delivers you into Roaring Meg. It reminded me of the run into the basin at the Great North Walk. I looked for the trail marker heading to South Point and shot on through the campground. I was now expecting a fairly easy drop of 3 kms or so to the most southerly point of Australia’s mainland. What I hadn’t figured on was the twisting and turning, fairly technical and definitely longer than 3kms trail. It was awesome trail running though and I was soaking up every second. I crossed paths with Bryan who was now leading, about 10 minutes out from the turnaround. He was running well and looked strong. I would have to pull off a blinder to catch him I thought. I scrambled across the rocks and touched the plaque, looked around a bit before retracing my footsteps back up the hill.

Whippet came into view flying downhill with Pbig on his tail, both looking very determined, it seemed they were having a good ole tussle. I figured I had maybe 20 minutes on them. I struggled a little back into Roaring Meg passing a happy RMC and was greeted by a hiker at the campground. I noticed Pbig’s Aarn backpack on the fence; obviously he chose to go lighter on the return trip to south point. I pulled out a banana for the trail to the lighthouse and dropped a gu. Maggot then appeared on his way into Roaring Meg in the 60km looking strong. After a few kms of more superb singletrack I popped out onto a 4-wheel drive track. I was ambling along when suddenly I noticed some writing scratched into the trail. I ignored it for a second and then realised there was an arrow too. Was it intended for us runners or hikers? I backtracked and realised there was a turn off to the left and a big signpost with Lighthouse on it. Phew almost missed it, idiot.
I double-checked my compass to make sure I was still heading east-southeast, all good. With awesome vistas to the right along the coastline, the lighthouse eventually came into view, sitting on a rocky pillar jutting out to sea off in the distance. The trail drops for the final few kms down to the lighthouse access trail. I flew along here and was half expecting the Whippetman to catch up such was the terrain, very much his domain.

As I hit the concrete path I passed Bryan and figured he was at least 15 mins ahead. Next was Brett on his way back in the 60km and then I caught up to Paul Ashton and Brendan. After a good climb, reminiscent of the Wildhorse Mtn climb at Glasshouse I reached the lighthouse. I had read up a little on the lighthouse before the run and was suitably impressed by it. I touched the door and then made for the water tap inside the toilet and refilled. A quick refuel and back down the hill. A nice turning point, I felt I was homeward bound now.
I almost made it to the turn off heading north to Waterloo Bay when again Whippet came flying downhill, followed closely by Eatem and Duckgirl who were running in the 60km.

The next section climbs almost immediately across the headland flanking the lower reaches of South Peak. It was along here that I died and went to trail heaven. If there is such a thing as trail nirvana it was here that I found it. The trail drops off to the right though remote untouched forest with tall trees hugging the embankment that roll down to the sea. I felt like I was in the middle of some enchanted land, such was the beauty of the surrounds. Twisting and winding its way upward the trail eventually levelled off before a long and sometimes technical descent to Waterloo Bay. I passed more hikers along here and could see my destination off in the distance. I ran as hard as I could to the bottom hoping to catch a glimpse of Bryan and get a gapper. I didn’t see him on the beach at all and figured he still had a good 15 minutes at least on me.
I arrived back at the turn off along the Waterloo Walking Track and having ran along there a few hours earlier knew what to expect. I passed a family a short while later and asked them if they spotted another runner ahead. They informed me that Bryan was a good 10-12mins in front of me. Hmm, keep plugging away and see what happens.

I stopped at telegraph junction to retrieve my drop but a crow had ripped the bag apart and all I found was my small bottle of coke. The ‘Up and Go’ and tin of creamed rice were nowhere to be seen? Oh well the coke would have to do. Only 11kms to go, I should be right. The trail to Oberon bay was cleared and made for quick running to the beach. The sand was hard which helped too as I ran toward the exit. I noticed 3 runners ahead but couldn’t make out who they were. As I got closer I realised Bryan wasn’t there and I would likely have to settle for 2nd place at this late stage. As I approached the inlet and water crossing Brett was busy pulling out his garbage bag, stepping into it and then hopping his way across the water. I was amused as the water was so low that I managed to skip across getting only one foot marginally wet. Brett pointed me in the right direction to the trail that leads up over the headland to Little Oberon Bay. I ran most of the incline and once around the other side looked down toward the beach and spotted Bryan just about to exit. I ran hard down to the sand, and along the beach finding the notorious Little Oberon exit immediately, daylight and a big arrow making it a whole lot easier to find of course. I was within cooee of the finish now and figured I could pull off a sub 10hr finish if I kept plugging away. The trail around the final headland and Norman Point seem to take forever. I longed to see the beach at Norman Bay and the finish. When it finally came into view I looked for Bryan but there were quite a few people on the beach and it was hard to make him out. The trail dropped and I put on the afterburners hammering down the final hill. I hit the beach and knew I had to look for Ramp 3 the exit point back to the finish. The wind was blowing head on making it difficult to get any real speed happening.
I finally reached the ramp (what was ramp 4 actually) and exited the beach and the final few hundred metres back to race headquarters and the finish line.
Maggot (who ran very well and won the 60km) and Bryan greeted me as I arrived in 9.48. Turned out I was only 4 minutes between us in the end. Well chuffed.

Hung around for a bit before toddling off for a shower and then watching the other runners come in. Whippet was next and then the rest came in over the following few hours.

One of the best things about this race, apart from the obvious splendour of the trail itself is the low key/no frills feel to it if you like.
We just hung around the camp scoffing back beers that night trading war stories. Cool stuff…our Victorian friends made me feel very welcome into the Prom Club.J

Thanks to Paul and the other runners for enabling this event, I will endeavour to make it back for the full monty next time.

Lastly, a massive thanks to Whippet for making this run happen for me, with airport transfers and camping gear, hell he even cooked both nights. Cheers mate.

Phil.