Great North Walk 100 Mile Race 11-12th Nov 2006

I ventured into unknown territory during this run, staying on my feet for 35 hours, by far the longest time on my feet, surpassing Trailwalker a few years ago by some 12hrs.
After pacing Blue Dog over the final 68kms last year and covering a few sections of the first 100km in training, I was keen as mustard to get out there and sample this fantastic adventure that is the GNW100. This was to be my 12th ultra for the year and there are not many prettier or tougher trails around.

As it transpired it was going to be a very busy weekend with U2 concert obligations on both the Friday and Monday, I called it my GNW “sandwich”. Only thing was I feared I might have bitten off more than I could chew. When I first heard about U2’s rescheduled tour dates I feared the worst, I would not start, but there was no way I was going to miss out on this one. It had to be run.
With the craziness of cramming so much into one weekend on my mind, I scaled back my plans of “racing” it and decided to team up with Mellum and just push for a finish and treat the race as a trailwalker type team event. This would turn out to be a wise decision.

After Friday nights concert I zoomed up the freeway arriving in Toronto about 1.30am, 3 hrs later I was awoken from my slumber by my phone alarm. Wow, was that really 3 hrs? I quickly dressed, grabbed my stuff, ate a tin of creamed rice (one of many for the day) and drove to the start line. It was already bustling, upon arrival. Most runners seemed to be ready and waiting to get going. I had organised my drop bags the day before so it was just a case of finding the corresponding bins and then trying to get into the right mental frame in readiness for this epic.

And an epic it is, I’ll quote the homepage of the website:

“the course passes through rugged and spectacular terrain and is a demanding challenge for all runners. Entrants need to cope with precipitous ascents and descents, muddy trails and creek crossings, slippery rocks and roots, and hard-to-follow trail. There are a number of sections where running is impossible. There will be no marshals on the course and all runners will need to be capable navigators and prepared to travel at night in remote areas on difficult trail. Runners will also be required to carry certain equipment and must carry sufficient water to last them between checkpoints, which can be up to 30 km apart.
Add to that, 108 miles of trail with 6130mtrs of ascent and 6144mtrs of descent. Giddyup!

Dave Byrnes rang out the usual warnings and last minute stuff. I felt like I was on a massive hangover even though I only had a couple of beers the night before. Everyone seemed to have their shit together, or so it appeared.
The forecast was for a hot weekend with temps to reach mid thirties. The predicted heat combined with over 6000mtrs of elevation gain and loss through remote country ensured we were in for a tough couple of days.

We set off bang on 6am with the field quickly starting to spread out. I settled into a comfortable pace running with Tim and Andrew about mid pack I guess, at times running with Eagle, Mister G, Bandanna and Allison Lilley.
It was already warming up and with sweat starting appear on my forehead after the first few hundred metres I knew we were in for a hot one.

It took me a while to get going, I was still ringing in the ears and slightly deaf from the concert. It was nice to hit the trails after a few kms of bitumen and then the hills and there are lots of them. Running very conservatively, power walking the ups and gliding the downs was the go. I felt left out, with both Tim and Whippet opting for trekking poles to take the weight off their knees whilst helping with the climbs.
The course gets real pretty very quickly as we enter higher ground along the ridgeline of the Sugarloaf Range, steep drop offs either side affording wonderful vistas with awesome singletrack running ending with a nice drop down to Brunkerville Gap and the crossing of Freemans Drive.

I ducked into the servo for a much-anticipated coffee, to alleviate the caffeine headache I was quickly developing. A quick top up at the water tap and then the climb to Heaton Gap and the communications tower, this is the first real tester on the course and a good appetiser for what lies ahead. We were travelling well, soaking up the early morning rays, still in the comfort zone as we made our way to the lookout. Another top up at the water tank, we then drop into lush rain forest with some tricky technical stuff along the valley floor. We traversed dry creek beds all the while keeping alert for GNW trail markers. Along here we enjoyed the company of a couple of rogainers who were entered in the 100 miler. There were plenty of leeches about already; Andrew seemed to be constantly stopping to pick them off his shoes. The views from MacLean’s lookout at the top of the next climb north to the Hunter were magnificent; we paused for a photo.

We pulled into CP1 to be met my a suit wearing Kevin from the Terrigal Trotters complete with Elvis tie and of course Elvis blasting out from the car stereo. My U2 honeymoon was over. We refilled, ate some and made for Georges Rd and the run along the beautiful Myall Range, a wide, hard packed firetrail that allowed some nice running. At CP1, Eagle came through and passed us, my competitive instinct told me to go with him and I was very tempted but decided to stay with the team. In truth I probably couldn’t stay with Ray at the rate of knots he flew off at.

We regrouped again as Whippet caught up after spending extra time stuffing his face full of baked beans. Nice running through the forest and again with the hills, this time the long climb to the infamous hugging pole. I actually enjoyed this climb and upon cresting noticed a photographer busily snapping away with a huge sadistic grin on his face. Looking at the post race photos he certainly captured some beaut moments. I recalled Tim’s photo from last year, this year there were plenty of similar faces of torment captured.

Again we played leap frog with our rogaining friends. After a while the track becomes narrower and we began our descent to Congewai Rd as the mercury steadily rose.
I was chugging away on my 3ltr camelback ensuring I stayed as hydrated as possible. I also carried a handheld with 600ml of electrolyte. This worked well and I never ran out of fluid. The long haul along the road through the valley to CP2 taxed us as the sun bore down on our backs, no shade and no wind, it was brutal. We passed a struggling Hermie and then met Blue Dog as he entered the Glenagra farm.
Tim fell off the pace or maybe it was Andrew and I upping the pace in an effort to get out of the heat, seeking the respite of the school. We arrived there and met up with our crew for the first time. Chub and Topcat had everything read for us, iced water, fresh fruit slices, suncream, great stuff. We sat down, ate, drank and retrieved our night gear from our drop bags. Tim arrived about 5 minutes later looking pretty wasted. All up we stayed there for a good 30 minutes but we needed to. I was itching to get going again knowing we had the toughest leg ahead of us. I had a fly net in my drop bag and decided to try it on; about 100mtrs out of the school grounds I pulled it off again feeling somewhat claustrophobic. O Runner came into view as we trudged up the road looking tired and dehydrated. I was surprised to see him; his was one of many navigational mishaps for the day.

Tim had pulled up well at the CP but it wasn’t long before things started going south for him as we neared the first climb after traversing the farms and paddocks at Glenagra. I pulled ahead on the climb, always keeping the boys within eyeshot. However, at one point I turned around and couldn’t see them anymore. I ran back down the hill and noticed both of them sitting down near the bottom. I called out. They regrouped and started climbing again. At this point I was thinking they both might not make it as Whippet was having some stomach issues, too many cans of beans at the CP I reckoned. Andrew pushed on to the communications tower while Tim battled on behind. I stayed with eyeshot hoping, praying he would come good. We sat down at the top of the climb next to the communications tower and ate and drank waiting for Tim to recover. He was dizzy and disoriented and frankly looked like shit. It was not looking good. I had hoped the break would serve him well but it wasn’t to be.

We walked along Cabans Rd toward Flat Rock lookout discussing our options. Tim made it clear to us that his race was run and he’d pull. We decided the unmanned water drop near Watagan creek was the best option with a serviceable road and rang ahead arranging for him to be picked up. The satellite phone number didn’t work so we tried Blue Dog who was making his way up to the highest point of the course at Mt Warrawalong and Vegie Girl who was following our progress too. We were assured the message would get through. With help sorted, all we had to do now was get Tim down to the water drop. I was amazed we didn’t get passed along here as we walked a good 7-8km of very run-able terrain. As it transpired 8 runners would pull the pin at the last checkpoint CP2 just 52.5kms in, a testament to just how tough this run is.

We left Tim at the water drop where he assured us he was ok. He did look a lot happier after sitting down. Andrew stole his last sandwich before we left for the climb up Mt Warrawalong. As we were leaving Sportsman and Peter Lines arrived and then we noticed Bill Thompson crossing the paddock off in the distance and that was our cue to get going.

The climb here is tough with very loose gravel on steep ascents making for treacherous footing at times. Whippet and I pushed on fairly hard trying to make up some of the time we’d lost over the past few hours. It was nice to finally arrive at the highest point of the course at Mt Warrawalong, I thought back to the recon run I did here a few weeks prior. It was starting to cool down now as the shadows grew longer, our original intent of reaching the Basin before dark would not happen.

We ran well down into the next valley, crossed Wollombi Brook and then climbed up toward Pig and Sow Ridge road. I mentioned to Whippet the course directions could do with adding this drop to the creek and subsequent climb back out.
Once at the top on Wild Boar Rd, I tried to push the pace in order to cover as much of the gnarly terrain on the way into the Basin in daylight as possible. Andrew remembered the way well from last year, so no navigational mishaps as night fell. We spotted a few headlights coming back out of the Basin, at times mistaking them for the CP itself. We then saw Eagle and Lawrence at the Lyrebird Trail intersection; they had a good 90 minutes on us we figured. We bid them farewell and mentioned we’d see them later at Patonga beach. Next up was Kanangra looking focussed and determined.

The final stretch into the Basin seemed to go on forever, we were delighted when the CP finally came into view with some glowsticks hanging from trees signalling its arrival. A great reception greeted us, and after checking on Tim (who was a asleep in Chub’s car) we sat down and tucked into some hot soup, once again our crew doing a great job. I remember putting my soup on the ground for a few seconds only to pick it up again and find it was leech infested, creamed rice please. Horrie refilled our packs this time while Topcat and Chub made the soup and coffee. Diane, Chonky, Aunty Karin and Bandanna amongst others who were still there providing lots of support and encouragement.
Whippet had another CP moment only this time he really looked quite ill. I thought his race was over then but full credit to him he got his shit together and got up.
We stayed at the Basin for quite a while but again it was required.

Just after exiting the Basin “vortex” we came upon Bill who makes this stuff look so easy, he was singing as we passed, obviously delighted to be nearing the CP and looking forward to his steak and glass of Guinness. Shortly before the track diversion heading back uphill we bumped into Sportsman and told him not too far to go. Paul Every and Pem also appeared soon after.

The climb out of the Basin to Walkers Ridge Forest Rd was a drag. I remembered this was an area a few runners got confused last year making there way to Kingtree Ridge Rd and I rued not having the specific course directions and the detailed map for this area with me. Still the notes we had made sense and finally we were on the long descent to Cedar Brush Creek Rd. At one point we couldn’t see any markers as the trail narrowed and became fairly overgrown. We were just about to turn back when not that far ahead we spotted a trail marker… phew, what a relief it was to see them little red signs. I think it was around here that I started to become quite fatigued, the high of the Basin was starting to wear off and we both knew there was some pretty mundane bitumen running to be had into CP4.

We emerged from the bush and out onto the road, a gravel road that soon became bitumen. It was around midnight and we were both tired. At one stage along here I started to go into micro sleeps as we walked. Every so often I would start running again in an effort to awaken myself from my slumber, only to find myself on the soft shoulder staggering. Whippet was feeling the same wave of tiredness, we longed for CP4 at Yarramalong to appear.

Over the last few hours I had developed some hot spots on both balls and heels of my feet (most likely from a lot of walking) and was looking forward to a change of socks and shoes at the next checkpoint. Just before the CP we noticed red and blue flashing lights in the distance, I presumed it was an ambulance at the CP thinking the worst, it turned out to be our welcoming beacon.

The checkpoint was great with lots of food, pasta and hot soup. I downed a tin of creamed rice and changed into my CR tritop, sat down and peeled off my socks to reveal some nice blood blisters on both heels. Whippet went into CP oblivion again but was still cognitive enough to give me some antiseptic swabs and two dressings for my feet, legend.
I should of burst and drained the blisters but instead opted to leave them be. As it turned out it didn’t take much running for them to pop all by themselves offering immediate relief. It was nice to have some fresh clothes on; I grabbed my spare Garmin from my crew bag too. Whippet got up again, composed himself and we made an exit. Allison and Sportsman arrived just as we left.

So 103kms covered and from here I knew the rest of the course bar the new section along Mooney Mooney creek. I was feeling better now and fresher for the rest.
We entered the bush again along Bumble Hill Rd and started descending into the valley. I remembered a tricky turn off here heading back up hill that Blue Dog and I and others missed last year. No mistakes this year, we carefully picked our way through the night crossing some damp patches of mud along the way. We dropped into the valley once more along some technical trail where you had to stay very alert picking up the trail. I turned on the 3W led on the Apex for the first time through here; it did a wonderful job lighting up the canopy covered forestry trail. We crossed Dead Horse Creek and climbed again up to Mulligans Ridge along a twisting and turning trail. At one point we were convinced we’d just ran in a big circle. Alas we emerged on Tooheys Rd and the unmanned water drop, relieved we hadn’t stuffed up.

Dawn was now breaking and with it our spirits soared as we ran down to Ourimbah Creek along a wonderful singletrack, soft and lush under foot. Whippet flew off into the distance enjoying the gentle descent. It started to rain and I began to sing again. This was truly the best moment of the run for me. It was day two and around 24hrs in, the cooler temps of the early morning and accompanying rain exhilarating.
We climbed once more passing Hidden Valley, a lovely part of the world where an early morning horse rider greeted us. We turned right back into bush, yet another climb before emerging on the bitumen of Kilkenny Rd. CP 5 at Somersby Public School was now only a few kms away. We had made up some lost time through the last section with some good running and were fairly confident we’d get through the next stage with enough of a buffer for a more relaxed final section. (yeah right)

The CP was very quiet with only a few Trotters about and of course our crew. More refilling, refuelling and an opportunity to drop off the night gear. Tim was now crewing having recovered from the previous days heat stroke. I wasn’t too keen on the spring water and asked Topcat to replace it with water from the crew car. We bid Topcat and Chub farewell as they had to get home, we would now have Tim as our crew for the remainder of the run. More coke, coffee and a packet of salt and vinegar chips, there was even some boiled spuds on offer.

We only spent 10 minutes or so there before we left, determined to get to Mooney Creek in good time. This is where the course diverted from last years and instead of going through Somersby proper we pick up the GNW running parallel to Mooney Mooney creek. Superb running, a slight downhill gradient on soft trail, shaded canopy, magnificent, we made good time down past the dam and to the crossing. I fielded a few calls from Vegie Girl, Undercover Bro and Tony from work, all offering encouragement. Before long the huge expanse of the F3 freeway loomed overhead, we knew we were nearing the CP. I knew the Mooney Mooney Bridge wasn’t too far ahead after crossing it a few times during the annual Poorman’s Comrades fatass run.

It was bloody hot again and we looked forward to a cool coke. A quick stop we needed to keep moving, I grabbed some bananas before we left. I enjoyed the section along Piles creek before we crossed on the suspension bridge. We were now back on the course from last year at the intersection to Patonga and Girrakool. The next climb was brutal, in the heat of the day, sun belting down on us as we clambered our way to the top. A short flat bit and then another drop back down to Piles Creek and Myron Brook where we stopped at the waterfall and took some time out to get the core temp down. The icy water was heavenly; we scooped it up with our caps and drowned ourselves in it, refreshing us in readiness for yet another climb.

This last section should not be underestimated no matter how good you feel. It’s relentless moonscape at the top over Leochares and Scopas Peaks is very exposed hard sandstone plateaus, with no respite from the sun. It seemed to take forever for us to finally arrive at the unmanned water station having earlier read a signpost indicating 13km to Patonga and then realising at the water drop we still had a good 14km to go. We were also experiencing a good dose of the sleep monsters through here, convinced we’d see something in the bush only to realise it was a rocky outcrop or tangled bush or something else. At one stage I was convinced I saw a grotto complete with a statue of the Virgin Mary carved out of the sandstone. I was about to point it out to Andrew but thought better of it. We just kept on plugging away following the little arrows that were graciously painted on the rocks, without them there is no discernable trail. In fact this whole section looked so different from last year, a result of recent bush fires maybe?

We skirted Mt Wondabyne and then picked up a 4WD track. Then the weirdest thing, I recalled being able to see the ocean around here last year and right enough I looked out beyond the trees and let out a yell to Andrew. Then we both yelled out triumphantly thinking yes not long to go now. The realisation that we were in fact looking at the Woy Woy garbage depot and mistaking the “sand” coloured structure for the beach left us deflated. We stopped checked the maps again and figured we were in fact a good 7km out from Patonga, silly mind games playing up late on.

A few Trotters then appeared coming up the up the track. They called our numbers in and then informed us we had a good 90 minutes to go. We calculated we should be ok time wise and well under the cutoff but weren’t taking any chances so we started jogging again.
Finally we crossed Patonga Drive and entered Warrah Trig road. Jan Herrmann pulled up in his car offering some encouragement, which was nice. We were nearly home. Just then Sean Greenhill called, I informed him we are about to drop down to the beach. We heard some cheers coming up from below as we entered the trail descending to the beach. We were almost there.

It’s just after 5pm on the second day as we hit the sand for the first time.
What a feeling, the culmination of 35hrs of hard bush trekking, a sharing of space and time with like minded, crazy headbangers.
My mind wandered back to this same moment last year whilst pacing for Blue Dog, this year there was to be no pacing, we were about to notch up a GNW100 mile finish, a damn fine achievement. To share it with Andrew was the icing, we stuck together for 35hrs helping each other through this adventure and fittingly raised each other’s arms as we crossed the line. The welcoming cheers from friends, family and crew was a nice touch, I was surprised to see so many people still around.
Blue Dog pointed to the GNW post and motioned for us to touch it, a fitting finishing ritual no doubt. I gladly obliged.

Looking back at the race now, some two weeks later I can say that it is without doubt the toughest 100 miler in the country and apparently on par with some of the hardest 100 milers in the US. I can only compare it to the Glasshouse 100, as that’s the only other one I’ve run. GNW is indeed, to quote Jan Herrmann, “Trailwalker on Steroids” and should be prepared for as such, lots of bushwalking, clambering over rocks and lots of hills, which equates to a lot more time on feet. I went into this event treating it as a very long bush walk/run type event. As it transpired, a sensible approach can in fact lead to a “Bradbury” type finish with plenty of dnfs along the way.
It’s a gem of a trail through some of the most spectacular country on offer.
I truly hope this event becomes a classic and cements its place as one of Australia’s premier trail runs.
I will be back next year to race this one; hopefully without any distractions ;-)

Once again, thank you Dave Byrnes and the Terrigal Trotters.