Bogong to Hotham Race Report

Bogong to Hotham 2005 Race Report


Everyone I have spoken to who has run this race was blown away by its toughness, its spectacular terrain and its lure.
So when it came to deciding whether I would front up for the Gosford Coastal Classic 12hr track meet or this race, the decision was made easy (also thanks to some friendly coercion from a certain Mr Greenhill).
This is the race for any aspiring ultra runner, 64kms of some of Australia’s finest Alpine trail running.


It turned out I was not alone either. Three other runners from Sydney decided they wanted to taste this Alpine Classic. Notably, three of the finest ultra runners in Australia, in Paul Every, Dave Criniti and Jan Herrmann. I had the pleasure of driving these guys down to the Snowies on Saturday morning. We set off at 10am and after a brief stop for lunch in Yass arrived in Mt Beauty and the Snowgum Motel at 6pm.
We were all extremely excited at the prospect of our first bash at B2H. It actually surprised me that the Everyman had not run it before given his resume! After a quick dip in the motels pool and a shower to shake off the hours of driving, we made our way to a little restaurant, that happens to be a stones throw away from the motel. There we met up with Canberrans Ian Wright and Martin Fryer, both seasoned B2H veterans and Rudi Kinschoffer, a multiple B2H finisher with an 8:03 finish to his credit.

Pizza, pasta and a couple of beers later we were deep into race tactic talk, chatting about track diversions to watch out for, gear to take, snakes to avoid etc etc. The tips we got from our Canberran friends were most insightful. The B2H virgins were ready!

My training up till now was good but not particularly geared for B2H (I had intended on doing the Gosford Coastal Classic). So about 7 weeks before I got some good quality weekends at the Quarry Track in Sydney for a good hilly workout. I was already doing Strider STaRs quite often and they are always good hill workouts. I was averaging around 80-90km per week with some biking and swimming in there too. Not a great deal, but quality was good with speed sessions twice a week. Still I had no great idea as to whether I could make the cutoff or not. 34km in 5.5 hrs looks easy on paper but from all reports it’s bloody tough and if you’re not in reasonable shape you can forget it.
According to all sources you gotta be in around 5hr 6 Foot Track shape to make the cut.
I ran 5:02 last year, so maybe?
With an average of 20 odd starters most years and less than half the field making the cut-off I had good reason to be nervous. At dinner we spoke about this and other things like the possibility of losing the trail (it happens), where to watch out for track diversions and aid stations (or lack thereof). After dinner I think I was actually more anxious than before!

Race morning was cool and fresh with the wonderful smell of Alpine air, as we gathered at Mountain Creek Campground for the start.
The place was a buzz with runners milling about the place, tending to last minute duties, adjustments to packs and late entrants (us) signing up. There was a wonderful campfire alight right next to the registration tent, very welcoming.
After piling our drop bags into the bus we gathered for the start. I decided to wear my trusty CR Tritop with had a spray jacket in my pack just in case the weather turned. Weather forecast for the day was good with temps in the low 20s. Given this forecast I decided at the last minute to leave the spray jacket in the drop bag for halfway and take a long sleeve thermal along instead.
Our race director Mike Grayling gave a short speech and then presented us all with a tin of Danish chocolate chip cookies and sent us on our merry way at 6:20ish. 2km of flat 4wd track crossing a creek a few times and then the big climb up Staircase Spur and Mt Bogong. I had the splits that Sean Greenhill got during his 2003 venture this way. He made it to the summit in 1:45 and ended up getting to Langford Gap and the halfway point in 5:17. I figured his splits would be useful for me (they were, thanks Sean). Dave, Martin and Ian pulled away quickly and I didn’t see them again until the finish. I hung back with Paul and Jan making steady progress up the mountain. Jan pulled away as he does on hills; he’s such a strong climber.
Paul basically wanted to be as fresh as possible at the top of Mt Nelse so he was backing off a little with the intention of running a faster second half. This was good as he paced me to the summit. In any case I figured staying with Paul was a good idea as there was no way he was gonna miss the cutoff! We reeled in Jan at the track diversion to the summit cairn arriving there together after 1:40. Man, how good was it at the top here, awesome views above the tree line, I was in heaven. My GPS gave a reading of 1991m ASL not bad considering we were at 1986m ASL. We stopped briefly for a photo and a quick chat to the volunteers. The next few km to Cleve Cole Hut made for great running, we were flying along, it was nice to stride out after the long slog up Bogong. Paul stopped briefly to tighten up his shoelaces and I recall it was along here that we passed my Sydney trailwalker teammate from last year John Lindsay, who got away an hour earlier than us. He was moving along quite well looking comfortable.

We reached Cleve Cole Hut where I stopped and filled my Camelbak. I had drunk quite a bit on the climb up and was glad to have a good 1.5ltrs in the pack. Jan didn’t stop and set off for Madison Hut before me. I tried to catch up as the running was good here but he was flying along in the direction of T-Spur. Didn’t bother stopping at Madison Hut, the volunteers got my number and pointed me in the right direction. When I reached T-Spur I could see what all the fuss was; regarding getting lost here and finding it difficult to find the track down to Big River. Luckily for us this year the bushwalkers club had very generously attached pink tape along the track making navigation a whole lot easier. The descent here is brutal and my quads were getting smashed. I really wanted to fly down this spur but the terrain just wouldn’t allow it. There was lots of bark lying across the track, which almost tripped me up a few times. Then there is the view across the River to Duane Spur. My God we have to climb that too! The recent bush fires had left an unobstructed view of the climb up Mt Nelse on the other side.


The sound of water flowing signalled the arrival of Big River. It was 2:57 into the run, still just ahead of splits. Jan was perched on a rock filling his water bottle. I borrowed his bottle to fill my camelbak, almost losing the cap as it fell into the river. The water is crystal clear and so refreshing here, not many places left where it’s so good. I quickly ate a tub of rice pudding before making our way to the crossing. There is a huge fallen tree lying across the river, which enabled a dry crossing. We were thankful, as running up Duane Spur with wet shoes would have been nasty. Going up Duane Spur is when I started to struggle a bit, I managed to stay with Jan for a while but started to fall off as the climb took its toll. I was sweating heaps and stopped every 20 metres or so for a breather. The March flies liked my shoes so much they actually started biting me through the mesh! Luckily I had applied a thick layer of Bushmans bug repellent, loaded with Deet to my legs, arms and neck. It seemed to be working, as they were not interested in my skin. Onward and upward, I was passed along this section as I tried to get a stride happening. Finally reaching the top passing a burnt out Ropers Hut where the trail levelled out. Normally there’s water available here but not this year. From here the running was good again but I was stuffed after the 2 climbs. I caught up to Jan again figuring I would need to stay with someone to make the cutoff. Paul who had dropped off the pace earlier now came screaming up from behind looking extremely comfortable.

We were together now running above the treeline and then dropping towards Watchbed Creek ,Pole 739 and the track diversion skirting Marm Point. At this point Jan and Paul pulled away from me. The terrain was real good and the slight undulations made for good running. Shame I couldn’t get it together, I was struggling big time here. I went through a bit of a dark patch with negative thoughts going through my head, “if I don’t stay with these guys I will struggle to make the cutoff” etc. They were a good 400mtrs ahead now and I had to dig deep. If I start the run/walk thing here that’s it, I’m stuffed. Somehow I got my shit together and increased my pace. I caught up to Paul just after the diversion. He had pulled up again to drink from a creek; I was rapt to be back with them. We only had a few more kms to go and we would be at Langford Gap. Meanwhile, I caught Jan a short while later at the bridge crossing. Paul then caught up as Jan and I double-checked our maps and the three of us set off for Langford Gap. Looking at the time, we reckoned we should be right but the further we ran the more worried we got. My GPS was telling me 34km, so where’s the halfway point? We followed a winding trail further. Paul muttered something like “any of you guys getting worried yet” We just looked at each other and put in a mini surge until finally the halfway point was in sight. 5:23, with only seven minutes to spare. I was rooted, Jan too, as we sat down for a quick breather. Paul only stopped briefly and was quickly on his way. Our drop bags were there so I quickly reapplied some more bug repellent and sun cream, grabbed some fruit oranges and bananas and wolfed down another tub of rice, while Mike Grayling generously filled my pack. He asked if I was continuing to which I replied, “You bet, I wasn’t busting my ass to get here and not continue” He just smiled and then said “good on ya”
Meanwhile Jan was having his customary bottle of beer when Mike exclaimed “you guys better get going”. So after a good 10 mins there (which we needed) we set off long the Aqueduct.

This next section is flat and winds its way along the aqueduct for a few kms. I was struggling to get into a rhythm again, the effort to make the cutoff taking its toll. Jan was behind (having left Langford Gap just behind me) and I started the dreaded snow pole counting thing. Each snow pole is approx 40 metres to the next, so maths is pretty easy. They are all numbered counting down to Mt Hotham. I passed Wallace Gap turn off and then the Rovers Hut, which is a huge modern hut (with solar panels) in the middle of nowhere. Strange I thought?
Luckily for me Jan was behind as I missed the turn off the 4-wheel drive track for Cope Hut. We arrived there together after stopping briefly for some water.

The Bogong High Plains loomed now and the terrain is well, awful. A rut in the ground next to the snow pole line that is difficult to stay in, as it’s so narrow. My hips were beginning to hurt from the constant “cat-walk” style running. Every now and again I meandered out onto the uneven grass. We passed the SEC hut and Aqueduct junction before heading off for Pole 333 and the turn south for home. Running was sporadic along these high plains and in hindsight we could make up a lot of time here if we didn’t walk. Easier said than done however. It reminded me of the slog along Black Range at 6 Foot.
As we approached Pole 333 there was a flock of crows to the south going off near Mt Jim making a right old racket, we figured it was because of the magnetic anomaly that occurs there ;-)

We reached Pole 333 and sat down for a bit, chatting with the two volunteers there. They were great, giving us oranges and fruitcake. We were the last runners through but they would have to wait until we got to the next checkpoint before they could pack up and go. A big commitment from these guys, big thanks to everyone who got out there to help out.

Feeling refreshed now we set off south along the Alpine Walking Track to Pole 267. A right turn heading west/southwest for the drop down to Cobungra Gap. The trail drops steeply here and I was beginning to develop a hot spot under the ball of my right foot from the constant braking effort. Again the terrain was all broken up with loose rocks everywhere. How the faster guys hurtle along here without doing an ankle defies belief. I stopped briefly to tighten my shoelaces, as my feet were moving around too much.

Cobungra Gap was beautiful, lush and green. The volunteer at Dibbin Hut was a cheerful bloke. He’d had a long day out there. We made our way straight to the Cobungra River for some refreshment and topped up our water supplies. Again the water here was so good, I wanted to jump in.

And so the slog up Swindlers Spur was upon us. I actually got a second wind here and started to feel real good. This has happened to me the last few ultras I’ve run. I could get used to that! The weather was closing in now with winds freshening and some ominous looking clouds about. I started to pull away from Jan here (yes on a hill!) and when I reached the top quickly got back into a good rhythm again. I arrived a Derrick Hut and just ran straight up the rise to Mount Loch. I was beginning to think the end is nigh! I looked back the switchback to see if I could spot Jan but he was nowhere to be seen.
Into double-digit pole numbers now it was count down time. I knew from the map that Pole 60 was where the T-Intersection was and the final turn towards Mount Loch Car Park. I looked at my watch and started thinking a sub 10hr finish was on the cards! Let’s see. I could see the car park off in the distance but it seemed to take forever to get there. I stupidly followed the 4WD track to the car park when I should of stuck to the snow pole line. Lost some time there. I then spotted a runner ahead and thought about trying to catch him until I realised I was running out of snow poles. I crossed the car park and ran along the bitumen road for a wee bit before following some red arrows to Mt Hotham Summit.
As I hit the top of the hill I could see the finish line for the first time. Already there were most of the finishers, our race director and bus driver.

I almost teared up towards the end as the gathered runners clapped. It was a fantastic experience to finish this one. I stopped my watch in 10:02 just missing sub 10 but it didn’t matter, finishing this race is achievement enough. Shortly after my arrival Jan came through looking really strong at the end. He surely would have caught me with another km or so.

We sat around sharing war stories for a while. Dave won at his first attempt in 7:50 and Martin and Ian both set huge PBs. Paul pulled up in 9:25ish looking like he could of went the distance again!!
A beer and a couple of photos later, we all bundled into the bus for the trip down the mountain.

That night we gathered again at the pizza restaurant, sharing our experiences, all feeling pretty smug and proud of our achievements.

This is without doubt the most gruelling and rewarding event I have done thus far.

I totally recommend it to anyone considering it and will most definitely be back to break 10hrs.

Thanks to Mike Grayling and all he volunteers out there. We were blessed with wonderful weather and conditions.